Eye Makeup 101

Get in (Eye) Shape - Info Post #1

First, thanks for hanging in and following along with me y'all. I know makeup seems like a silly thing to talk about especially with the way the world is today but for me it's a simple pleasure that brings joy to my day. Even more so when makeup companies are aware that we come in more than just Biracial Beige and Alek Wek Dark. No offense to either but Black women come in a rainbow of colors and companies should know that. That being said, I'm going to branch out and start bringing in other parts of makeup into my discussions and I hope you like it.  So I mentioned I am going to be talking about eye makeup and incorporating lipstick into those discussions as well.  No man is an island and neither is a part of your face.  Your makeup should be a harmonious melody not a cacophonous mess.  So let's start at the beginning: Your eye shape. 

Eye Shape

Almond Eyes

These are eyes, as the name suggests, that are almond shaped.  They are symmetrical, slightly upturned in the corners.  The best makeup approach is to increase depth and intensity.  A mix of light and darks helps achieve this look.  Using light colors in your brown bone and inner colors, topped with the medium tone on your lid.  Finally using a dark color on the crease starting from corner and blending into the crease.

Downturned Eyes

 If you were to put a straight line through the center of your eyes and see the corners of your eyes go downwards then you have downturned eyes.  The best makeup approach is to accenutate shape and enhance outer corner.  Use your eyeliner to provide some lift to your eyes, remember one of the greatest things about makeup is it lets you fake it till you make it.  You can use the same color approach for almond eyes but here you might want to try a cat eye or winged look.  
 

Hooded Eyes

If your crease is invisible then you have hooded eyes.  Since the crease is covered here your focus will be on creating the illusion of a crease.  The best makeup approach is to enhance visible eyelid space.  A medium color will give your lid a good platform for the darker color to place in your crease. Blending your dark color in your crease will make your eyes look rounder.  Using eyeliner here as well will create roundness.
   

Monolid Eyes

Those with little to no crease have monolid eyes.  Here the best makeup approach is creating definition and dimension. You can achieve this look by exaggerating the highlight by taking it from the inner corner all the way out to the center of the eye.  You should take your medium color all the way up to your crease as well to fake a rounder eye and dark color in your crease should be done in the same manner.
 

Round Eyes

Your eyes are round if the whites of your eyes are super visible when you look straight ahead.  The best makeup approach to round eyes is to elongate width to maximize shape.  Following the makeup instructions for almond eyes will best achieve that look.

Upturned Eyes

If the corners of your eyes go upwards if you were to put a straight line through the center of your eyes then you have upturned eyes.  The best makeup approach here is putting emphasis on the upward lift and enhancing symmetry.   Here applying a dark shadow on the lower outer corner will bring that curve down to make eyes look round or you can use your eyeliner to really make the curve stand out.  Upturned eyes are really great vehicles for smoky eyes.

Width
To determine the width of your eyes check the gap between your eyes.  If your gap is less than one eye length in size, you have close set eyes. If this gap is bigger than one eye length, you have wide set eyes.

Deep Set Eyes
For deep set eyes use less dark shadow and focus on highlighting the eyes to mimic roundness 

Close Set Eyes 
For close set eyes highlight below the brow bone and inner lid use a medium color and shade a little farther out than the width of your eye, use your dark color to shade from the outside to the top of the crease and start your eyeliner in the middle of your eyelid and pull it further than your eye.

Depth
Deep Set Eyes

Deep set eyes are the type of eyes that are tucked into your face.  Using light colors on deep set eyes on the upper lid will create highlights.  Darker shades on the upper socket line will create depth without pushing the eye back further.

Protruding Set Eyes
Protruding eyes are the type of eyes that pop out of the face.  Protruding eyes don't need highlighting in the inner corners rather medium shades layered on heavy will help diffuse some of the bulge.  Dark shadows under the crease of the eye will also help to bring down the protrusion while maintaining roundness.